East Jerusalem has featured prominently in the news over the past week. On 27 April, Human Rights Watch issued a 213 page report which examines Israel’s treatment of Palestinians and concludes that there is strong evidence that Israel is committing crimes against humanity of apartheid and persecution. This is most severe in the occupied territories … Continue reading News from East Jerusalem
It has been a troubled week in East Jerusalem, with clashes breaking out across several areas of the city in response to rising tensions between Jewish and Muslim residents and also Muslims and the police. The holy month of Ramadan is underway, and it is usual for this to create some unrest in Jerusalem. During … Continue reading Clashes in the city
It is impossible to live in East Jerusalem and not to hear regular tales of injustice, including unnecessary police brutality, house demolitions and a wide range of acts designed to strip Palestinians of their dignity. Only last week a couple were shot in their car at a mobile checkpoint a few miles away from Jerusalem. … Continue reading (un)peaceful protest
As you approach Jerusalem on the main highway from Tel Aviv, Lifta stands like a ghost town on the hillside. It is a prominent reminder of the Naqba[i] which saw the residents of many Palestinian villages scared away from their homes during 1947-1948. Lifta is unique in that many of the original houses are still … Continue reading Lifta
The smell of smoke filled the air around Jerusalem last Friday. For those uninitiated with the custom, the annual burning of the Chametz might have come as a surprise, but this tradition marks the start of the Passover week. Passover or ‘Pesach’ in Hebrew is a week-long Jewish festival which commemorates the Jews escape from … Continue reading Passover
A regular customer enjoying her mutabaq Most families have secret recipes but very few can claim to have been as successful as the Zalatimo families ‘mutabaq’. This week I added this sweet and savoury delight to my shortlist of ‘best food in Palestine’. With several branches across East Jerusalem and beyond, the Zalatimo name is … Continue reading Zalatimo Sweets
Kibbutz: the word sounds strong and decisive, ergo divisive. I have never been sure what category to put the kibbutz in. Is it any different from a settlement? Were the people socialists trying to build a progressive version of Israel or Zionists in communist clothes? We recently stayed four nights in a kibbutz, for lack … Continue reading Inside the Kibbutz
Forget the arctic, Scotland has 421 words for snow and yet in Arabic the word ‘talj’ covers snow, ice and everything in-between. Go figure, I guess it’s just not needed that much. Last week it snowed in Jerusalem for the first time in six years much to the delight of young kids and the horror … Continue reading Talj
We met Mohammad, our guide for the day, on a busy street in Zababdeh on Sunday morning. Over half an hour later than planned, we were bordering on rude, but he smiled broadly as he jumped in the car. Zababdeh lies 15 km southeast of Jenin and is approximately a 45 minute drive from Nablus. … Continue reading Zababdeh
Jerusalem is not the sort of place that sits still. Even during lockdown, the unique blend of people, cultures and politics means that there is always something completely astonishing happening on the streets or in the news. Below are a few things that I have observed or found interesting over the past week: Orthodox … Continue reading A week is a long time in Jerusalem
As we are not able to go anywhere at the moment, I have been nostalgically remembering fun trips from last year. Last January it was Nazareth…. Visiting Nazareth felt like going on a pilgrimage and I guess that is exactly what it was. Famous as the birthplace of Mary and the childhood home of Jesus … Continue reading Nazareth
‘Have you had it?’, this is the question that has buzzed around Jerusalem over the past few weeks since Israel began its mass vaccination scheme a month ago. Israel has made headlines around the world for the speed and efficiency with which it is rolling out the COVID-19 vaccine. Official statistics from the Ministry of … Continue reading Vaccine Race
It was June last year when I first visited the Jerusalem Princess Basma Centre (JPBC) situated on the Mount of Olives. The organisation provides rehabilitation services to children with disabilities across East Jerusalem, the West Bank and Gaza. Founded in 1961, when East Jerusalem and the West Bank were under Jordanian rule, the organisation took … Continue reading Basma – Giving hope to children with disabilities
In June 2019, not long after arriving in Jerusalem, I started some volunteering work in the Aida Refugee Camp in Bethlehem. From there, two of the camp residents had set up an organisation called Volunteer Palestine. This invited people from around the world to come and live in the camp and bring their skills to … Continue reading Aida Camp
Music often says a lot about the culture of a place. If the bits of the local Palestinian scene I’ve picked up on are anything to go by, Palestinian musicians are really leading the way and helping test the boundaries and cultural norms of Palestinian society. And just like everyone else, everything they do is … Continue reading Sounds of Palestine
It is the last week of a year that many will remember. Looking back, for me the highlights have been vibrant and in sharp focus, whereas the low points have already faded into a hazy grey sludge. Maybe that is the gift of the year: a greater appreciation for the outdoors, the company of others … Continue reading The Best of 2020
I have heard 2020 described as being like a slow puncture with the air slowly going out of the tyre and I am sure many of you can relate. I nearly didn’t even bother with a blog this week, as what is there left to say as the year limps towards the finish line? Doom … Continue reading HO HO NO
Last Thursday the eight-day festival of Hanukkah kicked off. Hanukah is the festival of light that celebrates the miracle that happened when the Holy Temple in Jerusalem was re-dedicated to Judaism back in the Second Century BCE. At the time Israel was under the rule of Syrian-Greeks called the Seleucids. The story goes that a … Continue reading Hanukkah
On Saturday evening the Christmas lights were lit in Bethlehem in a small ceremony which was streamed worldwide. Despite the challenges of this year, there is still something magical about spending Christmas so close to where the action happened 2020 years ago. Bethlehem is only 10km away from Jerusalem although, as if often the case … Continue reading Oh Little Town
If you want to drink local beer in Palestine your choices are blissfully simple – there is Shepherds or there is Taybeh. The good news is that not only do both of them taste pretty good but they both come from the sort of small-family businesses that you want to get behind. The conservative and … Continue reading A Tale of Two Beers
It is hiking season in Palestine and having missed the Spring season due to lockdown, we are currently maxing out on opportunities to get outdoors at the moment. There are many beautiful walks to be done across Israel and Palestine. Anyone unsure where to start should check out the Walking Palestine guidebook which you can … Continue reading The Shrinking Outdoors
The Negev is the desert area in the South of Israel. Surprisingly, it covers around 55% of the country and yet is home to less than 10% of the population. I guess deserts are not known for being hospitable and the Negev is no exception: temperatures are extreme, water is scarce, and the rocky landscape … Continue reading Negev
Like a weak sun breaking through the clouds on a winter’s day, the realisation has finally dawned on many of us that COVID is here to stay. It is not going to be gone by Christmas, unlikely by Spring, and it is anyone’s guess if 2021 will be any better at all. Hang on though, … Continue reading Fear Not Fun
If you are looking for famous gates (and I don’t mean Bill and Melinda here) you’d struggle to beat a stroll around Jerusalem’s Old City Gates. Just like a dysfunctional family, each one has its own personality and some fascinating historical tales to tell. I was amazed to learn that the Old City Walls of … Continue reading Meet the Gates
This week’s blog has been submitted by Samaher and gives a fascinating report of life for the Bedouin communities living in East Jerusalem. Samaher is Palestinian and says that you can’t talk about East Jerusalem without referring to the Bedouin. Her knowledge comes from a combination of working on Bedouin issues as well as personal … Continue reading The Bedouin
Yesterday Israel started to exit its second national COVID-19 lockdown which had lasted for 4 weeks. For many people this meant a much needed trip out beyond the prior 1km limit. During the lockdown, schools and non-essential businesses were all closed. Beaches, parks and leisure facilities were closed, and people were meant to stay within … Continue reading Lifting Lockdown 2:0
There is a bee in my bonnet this week and it is the deaf ears around the world that the climate catastrophe is falling on. I have written before about how the piles of rubbish in East Jerusalem were an assault on the senses when I first arrived last year. Sadly, they remain, however, having … Continue reading Climate calling
October marks the start of the Olive Harvest in Palestine. This has huge economic significance for the many thousands of families who make their living of the land, but it is also an important cultural and historical tradition. This week’s blog looks back on a memorable day I had during last year’s olive harvest. On … Continue reading Olive Tales
Last week we swapped hot and yellow for cold and green and East Jerusalem now feels like a million miles away. We decided to exchange three weeks of lockdown in Israel for two weeks of quarantine in Scotland and one week of visiting family. In 2020 that might even pass as a ‘holiday’. Lockdown is … Continue reading Seeing green
The other day my three year old asked, ‘are we Palestinian?’ Sadly, for us, we are very much British, but it was sweet to see that she understood a bit about where we are. The next day she said ‘I just heard a Palestinian’ when she meant the call to prayer, so her definition was … Continue reading Locked In
This Friday is the start of the Jewish High Holiday season. Over the coming three weeks there are three major festivals to be celebrated: Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur and Sukkot. Unfortunately, this year they will take place during a three week national lockdown in Israel. If you are new to Jerusalem, then the range of … Continue reading High Holidays
One of our favourite pass times since we moved here has been what you might describe as West Bank wanderings. Before I launch into these, I need to give a bit of background as the politics have made the geography crazy complicated. Put simply the West Bank lies West of the Jordan River and it … Continue reading West Bank Wanderings
This week we spent a memorable evening lying underneath the stars in the Judean Desert. If it sounds idyllic: it really was. We had heard that the annual Perseid meteor shower was taking place and decided to head down to a site near Nabi Musa with a gang of friends to check it out. Nabi … Continue reading Stargazing
When I moved to Jerusalem last year, I had only a very sketchy understanding of the occupation. I didn’t know my 1948 from my 1967 and I wanted to get up to speed quickly. Aided both by my husband’s already creaking at the seams bookshelf and the wonderful Educational Bookshop, I started reading a mix … Continue reading Reading Palestine
Battir might be one of the only places in the world where there really are eight days in a week. There are eight main families that own the agricultural land here and our knowledgeable local guide Hassan tells us that ‘everything in Battir is divided into eight’. Battir is a small Palestinian village, just a … Continue reading Eight Days a Week
Last week we went on holiday. Grounded by the prospect of a two-week quarantine in the UK and a two-week quarantine in Israel, we opted to stay put. It wasn’t where we thought we would be spending this summer, but it was interesting and memorable for many reasons. We stayed in the Upper Galilee, which … Continue reading Tracing the border
Ka’ak has ruled supreme as the Jerusalem bread of choice for thousands of years. It is eaten across the Middle East, but the Al Quds (Jerusalem) variety is known to be especially good. So, what is the secret to this stretched ring-shaped bread? Ka’ak is a popular breakfast but also makes a good brunch, lunch … Continue reading King Ka’ak
July has started and with it the second half of 2020 is underway. Days and weeks blur into one and the news headlines come and go. Elections, annexation, covid, occupation, it can be difficult to see the history being made in front of our eyes. This week, I’m taking stock of 2020 so far, a … Continue reading Half a year down
My favourite sound of Jerusalem, and one that has me excitedly running to the window, is the drilling of the Syrian Woodpecker in the trees beyond our house. If I am quiet and fairly still, I can often spot the woodpecker high up the trunk of the tree, beak poised and ready to drill. It … Continue reading Birds
Walking into the American Colony Hotel is like stepping into a green sanctuary in the middle of Jerusalem. The courtyards are immaculately tended and the gardens offer a calm oasis for people to meet and relax. I’ve not had the pleasure of staying here but a cocktail in the garden, or down in the cellar … Continue reading Behind closed doors
Last week the news and social media alike have been awash with shock and disgust over the police brutality that led to the death of George Floyd in Minneapolis on 25 May. There have been protests around the world. People are rallying around the Black Lives Matter campaign. This led to the backlash claim that … Continue reading Palestinian Lives Matter
The American Colony Hotel is both grand and iconic. It sits near the green line between East and West Jerusalem and considers itself part of the ‘no man’s land’ where everyone is welcome. I knew the hotel had enjoyed a string of illustrious guests over the years, but I wasn’t prepared for quite how startlingly … Continue reading The colony behind the hotel
This week I was very pleased to receive a guest blog from someone who recently visited three towns in East Jerusalem on the other side of the separation wall. I am always aware that my blog has been quite narrowly focussed on my experiences around Sheikh Jarrah and the reality for many East Jerusalemites is … Continue reading The Other Side of the Wall
Last week my kids returned to school and nursery after eight weeks of lockdown and we all breathed a big sigh of relief! They were just as delighted as us to have something to get up for in the morning, a place to go, people to see, experiences to live. The bags were packed the … Continue reading The ‘Back to School’ dance
Mohammad Khawashki - the founder Many people living in Sheikh Jarrah will be on very familiar terms with Mr Automatic, or the family of Mr Automatic’s that make up the popular Automatic Grocery shop. It is something of a miracle in how they manage to stock so many products in a modestly sized shop. Fancy … Continue reading Meeting Mr Automatic
On Saturday we went for a walk. It wasn’t just any walk. It was the first walk in nearly 6 weeks where we were allowed to go further than 100 metres, and latterly, 500 metres, from our home for the purpose of exercise. We dared not take the car and set out on foot from … Continue reading The Walk
Last week saw Ramadan kick off across the Islamic world, and for the pre-dominantly Muslim population of East Jerusalem, it is a time of both celebration and sacrifice. Ramadan is one of the five core pillars of Islam which requires healthy Muslim adults to go without all food and water from sunrise to sunset for … Continue reading Ramadan
It can feel like a game of lockdown top-trumps at the moment, where everyone competes for the most difficult situation. Locked down by yourself – unlucky, locked down with young kids – unlucky, locked down with kids and trying to work – extremely unlucky, locked down with your partner – unclear. Have some outdoor space … Continue reading Lockdown Top Trumps
Jerusalem is the heart and home of Easter. It is here that the action happened. The city is steeped in the narrative of Jesus carrying his cross through the Old City streets to the point of his crucifixion and death. You already know how the story ends, three days later the stone outside his tomb … Continue reading The Rolling Stone
And just like that, Wednesday marks a year that we’ve been living in East Jerusalem. I would say it has whizzed by in the blink of an eye, but the past month has put the brakes on life in a way that has given a lot of time for reflection. In many ways this new … Continue reading One year here
I’ve not got a diary to share this week. Who has? Life has gone virtual and despite being cooped up, you’ve probably zoom called your way around the world and never felt so connected. It doesn’t make for riveting reading though, and for now we can only dream of how amazing springtime must look in … Continue reading Milking it
I think for most people around the world, the past week has involved casting off life as we know it and trying to adjust to a new normal. Here in Jerusalem it has been a phased approach. All schools have now been closed for over a week with parents expected to home school their kids … Continue reading Staying In
There is only one story this week and that is Corona Virus. There are currently 213 known cases in Israel, and 38 in the West Bank. None in Gaza so far, thank goodness. This is not yet in the same league as many Asian and European countries, yet the country lurches closer daily towards complete … Continue reading Fever Tactics
On arriving in Jerusalem, I knew I was coming to a religious and conservative place where modesty was expected. My boring and practical clothes weren’t exactly revealing or cutting-edge flamboyant so I didn’t think it would be too much of an issue. What took me by surprise however, was how much my clothes would speak … Continue reading See me, judge me
If food is an indicator of a place’s character then East Jerusalem is vibrant and fresh, varied and generous, comforting and adventurous all at the same time. It’s hard to live here and not get excited about the range of delicious food available. Your jeans may feel tighter, but you will be happy, and your … Continue reading Food from the Land
I’ve been an on and off runner for years with more ‘off’ than ‘on’ and a penchant for excuses. I’m attracted to the efficiency of getting the exercise done in as short a time as possible and then racing home for tea and a biscuit. Of the many words I would associate with running, ‘privilege’ … Continue reading Shoes on & Run
I was very pleased, only 20 minutes after posting last week’s blog, to receive my first diary entry from an East Jerusalem resident. In setting up this blog, I thought I might have to cajole people into contributing (i.e. bribe my friends) which would have risked missing the real story. I wasn’t expecting the first … Continue reading Guest diary entry – A walk through East Jerusalem
One of the first things that hits you in the face when you visit (or move to) East Jerusalem is the litter everywhere. There is definitely an irony in the fact that some of the most hotly contested land in the world is often treated with the least respect. Bins are generally skips, with their … Continue reading Waste(d)
I moved to East Jerusalem last year and barely a day goes by when I'm not surprised by something. It's a fascinating and complicated place and I want to start this diary now, before I stop seeing some of the things that first struck me about being here. I’m worried that I might live here … Continue reading Hidden gems
East Jerusalem Diaries 